Holy Toledo!

This phrase actually comes from the strong Jewish population that thrived in Toledo. Like Granada, Toledo is a cultural melting pot that was at one time or another occupied by Visi-goths, Muslims, Christians, Jews (or Sefardi) and Roma, oftentimes together in relative peace and harmony. That did not last for long, so the story goes. Toledo is a city on a hill... probably one of the only hills in Spain. They say that everything is uphill, and it certainly feels that way. It is surrounded on three sides by the Tejo River, and the third side still has remnants of a Muslim wall constructed to keep those Christians out. (These walls were apparently more popular than they were successful). There are remnants of each civilization in Toledo, such as an old Roman aqueduct, the Muslim wall, Sefardi synagogue, and Christian Cathedral, which is huuuuuuge. I know I keep saying this, but they keep getting bigger and bigger. I remember the first cathedral I saw in Madrid was the Catedral de San Jeronimo and it nearly took my breath away. Well, that cathedral is a camping hut compared to the one in Toledo. Because of its history as the ancient capital of Madrid, no modern architecture is allowed within the city walls, which gives Toledo a very preserved quality. The controversial McDonald's in the Plaza Zocodover was only allowed one tiny arch to allow for this authenticity.

In Toledo, I took a very touristy train (picture Thunder Mountain in Disneyland, but without tracks) into the surrounding hills to get some better views of the city. I sat next to an older Canadian couple who were astonished to find that I was traveling alone, and decided to "take me under their wing" so to speak. They were quite nice, but I parted with them in the Cathedral, preferring my solitude in such a regal and jaw-dropping space. I ate a partridge and bean stew and tinto de verano (summer wine) at a Rick-Steves-approved restaurant, and headed to a "Exhibicion de Antiguos Instrumentos de Tortura" (Ancient Instruments of Torture!). Not only did it exhibit some of the gnarliest torture devices, but it provided a helpful English commentary into the Inquisition and the ways they used torture to extract information BEFORE sentencing... as if sitting in a spike-covered chair wasn't enough! One device used for drunkards involved carrying a heavy vat filled with water around, which reminded me uncannily of my backpack. I then visited the Sefardi Museum and Santa Cruz (big art museum with lots of El Greco's), but didn't fully enjoy these for lack of time. I bought some delicious Marzapan, which is the dessert of Toledo made from almonds and sugar and some jams...quite tasty!

Since then, I have traveled to Oviedo, settled in my room, met the other Oregon folk, and been orientated... suffice to say a lot has happened. Everyone seems really nice, which relieves me immensely. We all went out for food and drink last night, and it was fun to actually be around people again! In the middle of the night, my bathroom-mate, who is a dude I had not yet met, came bursting through my room, which scared the crap out of me. I shrieked, and he apologized claiming he thought no one was there, which I don't quite understand since my stuff was already in our communal bathroom. We have worked out a system so that this does not happen again.

Although I had a wonderful week of travel, I am happy to be in Oviedo. The traveler alone must constantly be aware of where she is, where she is going, where her luggage is, where her luggage is going... Being in a group has allowed me the luxury to sit back and follow the crowd, pass through already open doors, and eat at well-recommended eateries. The downside to this that I have no idea where anything in Oviedo is, but I am excited to learn it at a slower pace. Oviedo is the principal city in the province of Asturias. Asturias, unlike the majority of Spain, was never conquered by the Muslims so it does not have the traditional "Spanish" feel. Its historical influences are Celtic, Gothic, and Christian, meaning babpipes and cidra (alcoholic cider) are more popular than bull-fights, flamenco, and hot sun. It was the place where the Reconquest began, and is attributed with being the "origins of Spain," ironically enough. It is rather chilly here, and the rain and greenery remind me a lot of Oregon, which is a happy thought. We will be going to excursions so some of the surrounding natural beauty and ruins. I am excited to hike near mountains and lakes. We watched a video showing the sites in this natural-park and it was set to bag-pipe music... seriously it seemed more Irish than Spanish. I know understand what the people meant when they said this place was "different," but I am excited to become better-acquainted with it during the next month.

OH!-- and you know how I kept whining and complaining that I was going to be gone for SIX WHOLE MONTHS!!..? Well, I was talking to a girl who is doing the same thing and she said..."You do realize it's only five months, right?" And I counted the months out on my fingers and realized that yes! It's only five! Four and a half, to be more specific! Which is very tolerable, and not scary at all.